Wine With Duck Confit
Duck Confit is one of my favourite dishes. If it is on a restaurant menu, I normally have to have it, so I know it pretty well. Recently I had a conversation with a customer about pairing wine with duck confit. First of all, let me say, wine food pairing is not an exact science, there are no right or wrongs, and essentially wine and food matching is a personal decision, although one can try to point someone in the right direction.
So I was quite surprised when my customer suggested that Monbazillac is a good wine pairing with duck confit. I really can’t imagine this working. Surely a Monbazillac is going to be too sweet, with not enough acidity to cut through the fattiness of the duck. I shouldn’t knock it ‘til I’ve tried it. So that set me thinking, what are the best wines to drink with duck confit.
What is Duck Confit?
First of all, you need to know a bit about Duck Confit. Duck Confit is basically made by salt-curing a duck leg and slowly poaching it in duck or goose fat with a few basic seasonings. It is a traditional method of preserving duck from Gascony in South West France. The duck leg is usually rubbed with salt, herbs (thyme) and garlic, covered and refrigerated for up to 36 hours. Then it is poached in the fat for anywhere from 4 to 10 hours. At this stage the duck legs can be left to cool and stored covered in the fat, canned or in jars. Most commonly duck confit is served by frying or grilling the leg portions so the skin becomes lovely and crisp. So, you can imagine, you have a pretty rich, gamey, flavoursome and relatively fatty bit of meat.
So, Which Wine With Duck Confit?
Red or White? Most schools of thought seem to be heading towards a red wine rather than a white, but some white wine with duck confit will work too.
If you do want a white wine with duck confit, you need to be looking at the more aromatic wines with good acidity to cut through the fat of the duck confit, much in the same way that a good German Riesling or a Gewurztraminer can be great matches with Roast Duck or Peking Duck respectively. For duck confit I would personally go for a German Riesling, nothing too sweet, probably a good, fresh Spatlese (an Auslese will probably be too sweet). So I would perhaps suggest something like the Leitz Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese 2010 from the Rhine – this great Spatlese is not too dry with superb lime / citrus characteristics, green apple but with a good mineral finish and the great acidity that you would need to stand up to the duck confit. A good dry Gewurztraminer might be a good alternative, in which case I would suggest a crisp, not too flowery one like the Errazuriz Single Vineyard Gewurztraminer from the Casablanca Valley in Chile. I find this just a bit lighter, fresh and more floral than Alsace Gewurztraminers, although they would make a credible alternative.
Which brings me to the more traditional pairing of wine with duck confit. Red wine. A probably a Pinot Noir – this is what most of the wine books or discussions on wine forums reckon is the best match – although there are also a lot of recommendations for Bordeaux, or something a bit young and tannic to cut through the richness.
So, if one is going to go for a Pinot Noir, which one to go for? I think it needs to be fairly full Pinot, so something like a big, rich, well-structured Pommard from Burgundy would be good. Another great alternative would be a New Zealand, or perhaps, Oregon Pinot Noir, and I would be tempted to go for the Peregrine Pinot Noir from Central Otago in New Zealand. Central Otago is the best area for Pinot Noir in NZ and the 2010 Peregrine is elegant and bright with aromas of dark cherry, earth, plums and spice. It has a really good, layered palate of wildberry and blackcurrant fruit which combines with a great texture and fine tannins. There are also herbaceous thyme notes and hints of anise. All of these flavours and characteristics will make it a great wine with duck confit.
The other option is for a youngish, tannic red wine perhaps from the south of France. I think that a good Madiran or Cahors would be a good match. I would edge towards an Madiran. The Domaine Berthoumieu Madiran Cuvée Charles de Batz is powerful and has aromas of black and red fruits, a dense, full palate and firm, drying tannins. The power and the fruit, along with the tannins, make this a great match. Alternatively for a Bordeaux, would recommend something, young, fruit, quite masculine and Cabernet Sauvignon based – Chateau Lillian Ladouys 2008 from St Estephe is a great pairing. It is quite young, but very fruity and full but not heavy in an overbearing sense. There is plenty of depth and fruit and surprisingly supple tannins.
So, there’s some suggestions, any comment and feedback greatly appreciated. Do you have a favourite wine match? Let me know!